A story about a bag!
The “Ghana Must Go” bags, which are very common in West Africa, are often large, made of nylon, with a zip and recognisable by their blue or red gingham patterns. The name may vary from one country to another, but they share a common history: that of migration! In 1983, during the oil crisis, Nigerian President Shehu Shagari ordered the immediate deportation of around two million illegal immigrants from Nigeria, half of whom were Ghanaians. These migrants had arrived in the 1970s during the oil boom. Ordered to leave overnight, they packed their belongings into large holdall-style bags, which subsequently became known as “Ghana Must Go”. In fact, these two countries have long had a complicated relationship. When Ghanaian President Kwame Nkrumah was overthrown in 1966, the new Progress Party government adopted the Aliens Complaints Order, which set out the conditions for expulsion from Ghana. Those most affected were people working in small shops, such as Nigerians, but also Liberians, Lebanese and Indians.
‘Ghana Must Go’ in fashion…
Today, these bags are inspiring artists such as the portrait, fashion and art photographer Obinna Obioma. Born in Nigeria, this self-taught artist now lives in New York. His work focuses on exploring the human condition, touching on specific themes such as identity and African heritage. Speaking about the “Ghana Must Go” bags, he said:
“I remember asking my parents and other older relatives about the origin of the bags, as I thought they had an interesting name”
He has teamed up with two other artists: Chioma Obiegu, a Nigerian visual artist and designer, and fashion designer Wuraola Oladapo, to create a range he describes as a fusion of Western and African designs. This photo series showcases this accessory, which is known as a ‘Barbès’ in France, a ‘Turkish bag’ in Germany and a ‘Northern bag’ in Morocco. This bag, steeped in history, also came under the spotlight when Air France KLM banned it from its flights. This provoked the anger of the Ghanaian authorities, who saw it as a racist and discriminatory act, as it is ‘primarily used by African travellers’. ‘Ghana Must Go’ bags are still widely used in Africa because they are cheap and practical, but they have also appeared in a Balenciaga collection priced at $2,090!
‘Ghana Must Go’ in art…
The Cameroonian artist Alida Ymele also draws inspiration from this accessory. The stripes, sometimes forming the background of her canvases, sometimes appearing on faces, feature prominently in these works. Women are very often at the centre of her work: strong, resilient and powerful women!